Though this wine is in principle a constantly refreshed solera (half is the new vintage
and half the previous blend; Billiot among others does the same), and though the goal
is to mitigate variations, I find in fact this wine is quite variable, and I like it that way.
What’s in the market now is based on ’06, disgorged 7/09. Coming up is an ’07-based
wine disgorged 9/09. The ’06 is what I know as the “Peters flavor;” solid, earthy, like
gnawing the bark off a tree, and with its typical orange-blossom and saffron aroma
hovering close by. The ’07 smells steelier, more reticent; higher tones, almost pepperminty;
the palate is lively to the point of brashness. What will it become when it finds
its bass notes?
We are talking superb aromas: a riot of flowers, lobster and brioche. It’s unusually ripe, dynamic and powerful, and also quite settled-tasting, with a long deep clinging finish. As good as many others’ vintage wines, thanks in part, to a sensible 10 g.l. RS.