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| Brunello di Montalcino |
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The 2004 Brunellos are hard to resist enjoying now because they offer so much already, but holding off for two to three years will yield rewards. All of these wines are available in limited quantities. Major wine critics such as Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer have reviewed these wines extensively as the next outsatanding vintage after 2001. |
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Siro Pacenti $95.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 97 points
"The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a huge, dense wine that explodes from the glass with tar, smoke, earthiness black cherries and minerals. The wine possesses dazzling concentration and tons of richness, as waves of fruit coat the palate in stunning style. This big, dramatic Brunello needs time in bottle, but it is nothing short of magnificent today. The balance, and the integration of the French oak in particular, is brilliant. For those who are curious to try a bottle now, the wine should be opened a few hours in advance as the tannins are imposing at this stage. This is a rare Brunello of superb pedigree and complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.
Giancarlo Pacenti farms 20 hectares of Sangiovese vineyards, the vast majority of which are Brunello-designated. Pacenti is one of the few producers who believes in bottling a single Brunello made from plots across various zones within Montalcino, which he believes leads to wines of greater complexity and balance. In 2004, Pacenti’s Brunello is composed roughly of 60% fruit from the southern part of Montalcino, while 40% of the fruit comes from vineyards planted in the northern part of the region, closer to the winery itself. Pacenti employs a Bordeaux-like model where only the best lots are bottled into the Brunello, which he considers his ‘Grand Vin,’ while the secondary lots are bottled as Rosso di Montalcino. That said, 2004 also brings with it a twist, as it is the first time Pacenti has produced a separate bottling from a small old-vine plot near the estate. These are wines of the very highest level, and I can’t recommend them highly enough." |
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Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) $75.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 90 points
"Pertimali’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino offers up floral red fruits, spices, leather and earthiness in a surprisingly medium-bodied style for this property. The wine possesses lovely length and refined, understated finish. The estate’s Brunello is quite open and accessible at this stage, and also more forward in its aromas and flavors than many other wines in this vintage, which suggests it is best enjoyed on the young side" |
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Uccelliera $68.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 95 points
"The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is simply gorgeous in the way all of its elements come together. It’s hard to know where to start with this wine. Smoke, scorched earth, black cherries and wild herbs are all melded seamlessly in a Brunello loaded with flavor, personality and sheer character. The wine possesses formidable concentration and phenomenal length, with lingering notes of sweetness that round out the close. Uccelliera’s Brunello was impressive from cask, and it is just as impressive now that it is in bottle. Readers who have the opportunity to taste the wine at this young stage should not hesitate although a few years are needed before it blossoms fully. Simply put, this is the finest wine I have tasted from Andrea Cortonesi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Proprietor Andrea Cortonesi embodies the finest of the artisan tradition in Montalcino. Cortonesi’s wines have always been bold and exciting, but with the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Cortonesi has arrived at a new level of elegance." |
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Ciacci Piccolomini "Pianrosso" $64.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 94 points
"The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso possesses striking depth as endless layers of sweet, perfumed fruit emerge with tons of grace. This, too, is an intense, full-bodied wine. The balance here is utterly exceptional, and the wine’s sheer plumpness makes for a highly rewarding glass of Brunello. Succulent dark cherries, spices, underbrush, minerals and new leather come to life as the wine sits in the glass, yet this remains a backward, structured Brunello in need of serious bottle age. The Pianrosso is a terrific effort from proprietor Paolo Bianchini. Ciacci’s Pianrosso is an old-vines selection that spent 36 months in Slavonian oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has a lovely set of wines on his hands with these new releases." |
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Casanova Di Neri $81.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 91 points
"The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, fruit-driven wine. Made in a concentrated, opulent style, this Brunello offers tons of fruit and a round, soft personality. There isn’t too much nuance in the wine today, but that should develop in bottle. The long, polished finish invites a second taste. For now, this remains one of the more overtly fruit-forward wines of the vintage. The entry-level Brunello spends roughly 40 months in large, neutral oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Giacomo Neri is one of Montalcino’s more gregarious producers. His passion clearly comes through in these wines, which are characterized by an emphasis on fruit and opulence. Neri’s Brunellos also make a great case study in the different microclimates of Montalcino. His straight Brunello di Montalcino is made from vineyards ranging from 350-480 meters in altitude located in the northeastern quadrant of the region. Neri’s 2004 Brunellos are immensely successful." |
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Ciacci Piccolomini $49.99
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate # 183 (Jun 2009), 92 points
"The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino reveals sweet, open aromatics that meld seamlessly into a perfumed core of ripe red fruits. This is one of the more intensely scented, fruit-driven Brunellos of the vintage. The wine reveals superior density and richness in an engaging style. The softness of the tannins makes the wine accessible even today, yet the flavor profile is decidedly youthful. Readers looking for a measure of tertiary development will need to give the wine a few years in bottle. This bottling is made from the estate’s youngest vines. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has a lovely set of wines on his hands with these new releases." |
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